NOT SO SECRET INGREDIENTS

Transforming ordinary recipes into memorable dishes

By Ilysse Rimalovski

Can you recall the moment when you ate a new ingredient that changed what you crave?

As a child, I loved the experience of discovering new foods and flavors. I can still taste my first numbing mouthful of Szechuan peppercorns, the brininess of cured black olives (not the canned California kind) and that bite of unripe persimmon that left my tongue feeling otherworldly.

I remember my mom teaching me how to scrape artichoke leaves through my teeth and how to crack a crab claw with a wooden mallet to free the delicate meat. My aunt’s fruit salad was a revelation with the addition of lychees and their floral syrup.

Over time, I would teach myself to appreciate fresh beets, blue cheese and oysters. I’d make salad dressing for my family that was vinegar-forward. I’d turn ketchup, horseradish and Tabasco into cocktail sauce that was pleasingly sweet and hot.

I’d use soy sauce with abandon.

As an adult, my palate has become optimized for balance and surprise. I still find it thrilling to encounter unique culinary experiences and share them with others. Sometimes it’s as easy as opening up a jar.

My favorite secret ingredients include the pleasure of cooking for people gathered around the table, the care that goes into crafting a meaningful meal and the curiosity to experiment with new products, plating and settings.

I am always building my understanding of ingredients that layer flavor into humbler combinations. When my friend Danielle served her homemade chocolate chip ice cream, the inclusion of tahini, malt and sea salt redefined what I crave.

It often comes down to umami – a fifth taste that describes a depth of flavor that is savory and meaty. It prompts the question, “What’s in this?”

My kitchen is well-stocked with subtle and mighty ingredients that can transform ordinary recipes into memorable dishes. I love wandering the aisles of grocery stores, scanning unfamiliar products and imagining the possibilities. This week, I picked up black vinegar, fenugreek seeds and fruity olive oil. Who knows what they will become?

Perhaps you are swirling some miso paste into Caesar salad dressing or salmon marinade. Or adding capers, olives and lemon to roasted potatoes. I may mix hot sauce and brown sugar into a can of baked beans. Secret ingredients need not be flashy. They just need to make the familiar taste new.

Many secret ingredients are flavor enhancers: umami, salt, fat, acidity, bitterness, aroma and spice. They create balance and complexity. I taste as I cook, making adjustments until the resulting dish pleases my senses.

The following roasted potato recipe is both familiar and surprising, with briny punches of flavor in a piccata-style lemon-caper sauce. The final flourish will be a sprinkle of flaked sea salt, a twist of ground pepper, chopped fresh herbs and lemon zest. And whatever else is up your sleeve.

The list on the right is for reference and reflects what I keep on hand in my own kitchen. For an adventure outside of SOMA, visit Kalustyan’s in NYC, my not-so-secret resource for the world’s most beloved secret ingredients.

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ROASTED POTATOES PICCATA

Ingredients (serves 4)

11/2 pounds small Yukon Gold or baby potatoes, halved

2 large shallots, peeled and sliced

Some of the ingredients that make roasted potatoes both familiar and surprising.

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 teaspoon kosher salt (or to taste)

freshly ground black pepper

2 garlic cloves, chopped

2 tablespoons capers

juice of one lemon

⅓ cup pitted cured black olives (such as Kalamata), sliced

2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons fresh parsley and/or dill, chopped (save half for garnish)

grated lemon zest

hot pepper flakes, optional

Instructions

1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper for easy cleanup.

2. Toss potatoes and shallots with 2 tablespoons of olive oil, salt and pepper until well coated. Spread them cut-side down on the baking sheet.

3. Roast for 30 minutes, flipping once, until potatoes are crisp and shallots are golden at the edges.

Roast until potatoes are crisp and shallots are golden at the edges.

4. Make the piccata sauce while the potatoes are roasting: In a small pan, warm the remaining tablespoon of olive oil and add the garlic, capers, sliced olives and lemon juice over medium heat. Do not let the garlic burn. Whisk in the butter, fresh herbs and hot pepper flakes (if using) until combined.

5. Add the piccata sauce: Scatter the mixture over the potatoes in the pan and return to the oven for 5-7 minutes. The capers will crisp slightly, and the olives will deepen in flavor.

6. Finish and serve: Transfer to a serving dish, sprinkle with the remaining fresh herbs, lemon zest, fresh ground pepper and more salt if needed. Serve warm or at room temperature.

A piccata-style lemon-caper sauce gives roasted potatoes briny patches of flavor.

Ilysse’s Not So Secret Ingredients

For added umami, these ingredients add a savory depth without making the dish taste fishy: soy sauce, miso paste, anchovy paste, fish sauce, tahini, olives, capers, dried mushrooms, parmesan cheese, nutritional yeast and kombu (dried seaweed)

For balance, these ingredients brighten flavors and smooth acidity: vinegars (a vast array), citrus juice and zest, hot sauces, wine and sweeteners (honey, sugar, maple syrup and fruit, especially canned lychees)

For richness, these ingredients add roundness and texture: soup stocks and concentrates, fats (olive oil, butter, ghee, cream, mayonnaise, yogurt and avocado), Dijon mustard and fresh breadcrumbs

For freshness and color, add aromatics, herbs and spices:

• Onions, shallots (a subtler flavor compared to onions), garlic, leeks, ginger, celery, carrots, hot peppers and horseradish

• Fresh herbs (parsley, cilantro, dill, mint, rosemary and tarragon) and herb oils

• High-quality spices (everything from allspice to za’atar). I depend heavily on Maldon Sea Salt Flakes and whole black peppercorns.

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Ilysse Rimalovski is a well-seasoned home chef, writer and recipe developer living in Maplewood. Have food questions or need inspiration? Send a note to forilysse@icloud.com.