COOKING WITH ILYSSE
- Ilysse Rimalovski
- 2 days ago
- 6 min read
Kyiv in your kitchen
By Ilysse Rimalovski
To find the Shatashvili family living happily in our community is nothing short of a miracle. It’s been three years since Maryna, her husband Iraklii and their three children Samuel (14), Tamar (12) and Ester (7) emigrated here from their beloved home in Ukraine.
With each challah braided, baked and delivered from the Maplewood Jewish Center’s commercial kitchen, Iraklii takes the time to know each of his customers personally, building new connections loaf by loaf. His bread business, Ben & Shvili, grows alongside his day job as an IT specialist at Touro University.
When she’s not helping her husband or managing her own Judaica side hustle, Maryna teaches at Joseph Kushner Hebrew Academy in Livingston, another local community that anchors their family. After having to negotiate multiple schools and languages in quick succession, the children have landed there as students who excel in academics, sports and resilience.
“I tell them that they have to work twice as hard at everything because we are starting here with nothing,” says Iraklii, who is extremely proud of their accomplishments. He, too, embodies this ethic, having left the country of Georgia with his family in 1992 as the Soviet Union collapsed. They resettled in Ukraine as part of the shifting Jewish diaspora.
“Looking back, we didn’t realize what war actually is,” says Maryna. “War is 1,000 miles away. It’s only in the books. It’s only in the movies.” They left the security of their suburban home with a giant pot of pea soup on the stove and two bags of winter clothes, expecting to return in a week or two.
Although war was familiar in the background of their lives, danger at their doorstep was far from a daily concern. They resided in an upscale neighborhood outside of Dnipro, Ukraine’s fourth-largest city. It was peaceful there and “cool to be Jewish.” They were part of a vibrant and growing community led by a charismatic rabbi who modeled how to balance traditional practices with modern cultural values.
Maryna, trained as a pharmacist and Hebrew school educator, blended teaching with motherhood. Iraklii rose to director of educational programs and online leader at the prominent Hillel IT School. Their kids were enjoying being kids.
But following the full-scale Russian invasion of Ukraine on Feb. 24, 2022, Dnipro rapidly became a logistical hub for people fleeing from battle zones.
Conflicting information and mounting chaos quickly became existential. Remarkably, Maryna’s mother was able to find a driver that morning to make the trip to Dnipro from her home hours away. “It was really hard to explain to the kids what was happening,” says Maryna, incredulous. Ester was only 3 years old at the time.
In the darkness, vibrations of tanks and other large vehicles rumbling along the highway nearby could be felt, more than heard. After spending seven nights in their basement as missile alerts sounded, the Shatashvilis gathered important documents, cash and supplies. They decided it was time to leave.
An evacuation plan was organized by Jewish communities of Ukraine, Kyiv and Hatzalah, a global emergency medical service. With extended family driving five different cars, they joined a caravan heading west, following buses with unknown routes ahead. What they knew as beautiful countryside filled with fields and forests was already marked with checkpoints, piles of rocks and twisted metal barriers.
After 14 hours of driving without stopping, the caravan arrived in bordering Moldova. The Shatashvilis spent the night in a hostel. A Friday night Shabbat dinner enabled the families to take a familiar pause and regroup. Soon, they navigated their way to Romania.
A new reality was emerging as they contemplated options of where to go next, multiple conversations spinning into one. “What do you mean, Cyprus or Israel? My kids have snow boots, snow pants and jackets. I have nothing else,” recalls Maryna.
The El Al airplanes waited as lines of cars emptied, abandoned indefinitely. The flight was tearful. Still, the passengers were doing their best as they confronted what was left behind. Along with throngs of other displaced Ukrainians, the entire Shatashvili clan was welcomed into Israel.
The next miracle was a beautiful hotel room, free of charge, while the family adjusted and thought about everything they needed, including schools, jobs, a home, transportation and spoons. There was little time to be overwhelmed.
Fortunately, Iraklii connected with local relatives who were able to cosign a lease for a two-bedroom apartment for the six of them. Maryna visited many schools, looking for a fit comfortable enough for each child. Next, she found a job as a pharmacy technician, her mom became a home health aide and Iraklii was able to continue his work remotely.
But when Iraklii’s brother shared news about the opportunity to move to America through the Uniting for Ukraine sponsorship program, the future shifted yet again. “Okay, let’s try,” said Maryna.
Eventually, the brothers and their families would follow each other to New Jersey. A generous sponsor provided the next miracle for the Shatashvilis. Iraklii’s brother came first, making new connections and finding a school for the children. It would be their third new school in one year, “new country, new people, new culture, new language,” says Maryna.”
Iraklii said, “While the surrounding towns are nice, you can tell that Maplewood has a soul. People here really want to help you.” Starting from scratch, the family began the process of rebuilding their lives. The tradition of having possessions to pass from one generation to the next would need innovating. Maryna is particularly thankful for the crystal and china she acquired, someone’s forgotten heirlooms reborn at her table.
She adds, “But none of our challenges compare to the suffering constantly faced by Ukrainians who find the courage to stay in Ukraine under daily missile strikes, sometimes without electricity or heating.”
With deep pride and gratitude, she shares her recipe for Chicken Kyiv, one of Ukraine’s most internationally recognized foods along with borscht (beet soup), varenyky (filled dumplings) and holubtsi (stuffed cabbage rolls). The spelling reflects the modern Ukrainian transliteration, replacing the older Russian-derived “Kiev.”
This Shatashvili family favorite is typically served for celebrations and guests rather than everyday meals. The following recipe is adapted for both Kosher and non-Kosher households.
Chicken Kyiv
Crispy breaded chicken cutlets are filled with a chilled garlic-herb butter (or margarine) that melts into a rich sauce inside the chicken. Allow extra prep time to blend and freeze the filling (30-45 minutes), then chill the filled chicken breasts before cooking (20-30 minutes). The key is keeping the filling centered and the chicken tightly sealed so the sauce stays inside. A quick fry followed by finishing in the oven creates the ideal crisp exterior and juicy interior.
Ingredients for the garlic herb butter
8 tbsp butter, kosher margarine or plant-based butter, softened
3 cloves garlic, minced or pressed
2 tbsp fresh parsley, chopped
1 tsp fresh dill
1 tsp lemon juice
½ tsp salt
Prepare the butter
In a small bowl, mix ingredients until smooth.
Shape the mixture into thin logs using plastic wrap, wound tightly.
Freeze 30-45 minutes until completely firm.
Ingredients for the chicken
5 boneless skinless chicken breasts (thin-sliced, if available)
Salt and pepper to taste
½ cup flour
2 eggs, beaten
1½ cups breadcrumbs (such as panko or matzo meal)
Neutral oil for frying (vegetable, canola or sunflower)
Directions:
Butterfly or pound each chicken breast to ¼ inch thick. Avoid creating holes.
Season lightly with salt and pepper.
Place a portion of frozen herb butter in the middle of each breast.
Roll tightly, tucking the ends to seal. Wrap individually in plastic wrap, twisting closed.
Chill in the refrigerator for at least 40 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 375°F.
Remove plastic wrap. Dredge each piece in flour, dip in egg, then coat with breadcrumbs.
Repeat with egg and crumbs to make a sturdy crust that seals in the butter.
To cook, heat a pot of hot oil to 350°F.
Carefully fry two cutlets at a time, 2-3 minutes per side until evenly golden.
Transfer to the oven and bake for 12-15 minutes, until cooked through.
Serve promptly alongside challah, rice or roasted potatoes and vegetables or salad.
Ilysse Rimalovski is a well-seasoned home chef and writer focusing on food, community and caregiving, living in Maplewood. Contact her at forilysse@icloud.com.
Comments