A Beautiful Take on the Season By Ilysse Rimalovski

Vietnamese Summer Rolls

As bunches of mint, cucumbers and tender lettuces fill backyard gardens and farmers markets, we naturally crave the foods that reflect the vitality of the season.

Vietnamese summer rolls (gỏi cuồn) are the ideal portable summer lunch or light appetizer, requiring minimal cooking and maximum freshness.

Served chilled with a dipping sauce, these rolls are traditionally stuffed with rice vermicelli, raw shredded vegetables, herbs and a protein such as shrimp or pork.

Originating in southern Vietnam, where the tropical climate calls for cooling meals, summer rolls are often an entry point for diners new to the cuisine. Vietnamese culinary philosophy balances flavor (sweet, salty, sour, bitter and umami) with texture (crunchy, tender, chewy) and temperature. Summer rolls are easy to prepare, gluten-free and endlessly customizable. DIY summer roll platters have become popular at gatherings, where everyone gets to choose their own fillings.

Combine shredded pork and sliced avocado with a boldly flavored fish sauce. Or combine shrimp with bean sprouts and sliced mango dipped in sweet and sour sauce. A vegetarian version may feature tofu with a peanut butter dipping sauce.

What’s more, summer rolls are beautiful, especially when local produce is at its peak. The translucent rice paper wrappers show off what’s inside. Picture a neat row of shrimp with purple basil leaves and edible flowers.

If you’re new to working with rice paper, a quick dip in warm water will soften the wrapper. But the sheets are delicate. To prevent tearing, many home cooks find it helpful to double up the wrappers when first getting started. Another trick is to first create lettuce bundles that keep the loose ingredients together. From there, it’s a gentle burrito-like fold and roll. The wrapper practically seals itself.

When buying rice paper (bánh tráng), look for round sheets 8.5 inches (22 cm) in diameter, typically sold in plastic packages. Check for broken or brittle edges, which can make rolling harder.

When buying rice vermicelli (bún), look for thin rice noodles, not to be confused with bean thread noodles, which are more transparent and springy. The ingredient list should indicate mostly rice flour and water. These quick-cooking noodles will soften after 2–3 minutes in hot water, no boil- ing necessary.

Bean thread noodles (often labeled as glass noodles, cellophane noodles or mung bean vermicelli) are a fine substitute that will change the texture and look of the summer rolls slightly. Rice vermicelli is the traditional choice in Vietnamese cuisine.

For inspiration close to home, sample the summer rolls at Saigon Café in Millburn, a casual restaurant that features authentic Vietnamese specialties. While ingredients such as rice paper and rice vermicelli are readily available at most supermarkets in international aisles, Gold Valley in Springfield and Kam Man Foods in East Hanover are excellent resources for Asian pantry staples.

The following recipe for Vietnamese Summer Rolls leaves room for improvisation, accompanied by a peanut dipping sauce. Don’t worry if your first few rolls aren’t perfect. Keep your hands slightly damp and your fillings light. The rice paper is forgiving once you get the hang of it.

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Vietnamese Summer Rolls withPeanut Dipping Sauce

Ingredients for 6 rolls

18 small, cooked shrimp, peeled, halved lengthwise, deveined

6-12 round rice paper wrappers (use 2 per roll if you’re a beginner)

1.5 oz dried rice vermicelli noodles, soaked in hot water and drained 6 soft lettuce leaves (butter, oak or little gem)

1 cup fresh sprouts of choice (bean, alfalfa, etc.) 1 small carrot, shredded

1/2 cucumber, julienned

1 bunch fresh mint leaves

1 bunch fresh cilantro and/or Thai basil

Optional add-ins: sliced avocado, sauteed sliced shiitake mushrooms, shred- ded pork or chicken, tofu, scallion, mango or shredded cabbage

Instructions

1. Prep your ingredients: Soak and drain vermicelli noodles. If using uncooked shrimp, boil briefly and cool. Shred carrot and cucum- ber. Remove herb leaves from stems and trim crunchy spine from each lettuce leaf.

2. Make lettuce bundle: Layer some vermicelli, sprouts, carrots, cucumbers, and herbs inside a lettuce leaf. Roll it up and place the seam side down.

1. Soften rice paper: Dip 1 or 2 rice paper wrappers briefly in a plate of warm water until pliable, about 3 seconds. Lay flat on a clean surface, smooth side down. If using two wrap- pers, keep them stacked together.

2. Assemble each roll: Place 3 shrimp (cut side down) with a mint leaf in between at the upper third of the wrapper. This will show through once rolled. Add the lettuce bundle to the center.

3. Wrap it up: Fold in the sides, then roll tightly from the bottom. The rice paper will seal on its own. Repeat with remaining ingredients.

4. Serve or store: Serve immediately with dipping sauce or wrap each roll individually in plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 6 hours.

Ingredients for Peanut Dipping Sauce

2 tablespoon hoisin sauce (available at most supermarkets and Asian markets)

1 tablespoon peanut butter (smooth or crunchy)

11/2 tablespoon lime juice or white vinegar 1/3 cup coconut milk or water

1 clove garlic, minced

Optional: 1/2 teaspoon crushed chili paste Garnish: crushed peanuts

Instructions

1. Combine all ingredients in a small bowl. Microwave 30 seconds, then stir until smooth.

2. Adjust flavor and consistency with extra liquid as needed.

3. Serve in small ramekins, topped with crushed peanuts if desired.

Makes about ⅔ cup.

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Ilysse Rimalovski is a well-seasoned home chef, writer and culinary producer living in Maplewood and teaching cooking workshops at the Maplewood Senior Center. Have food questions or need inspiration? Visit Ilysse’s Facebook page, Ilysse Ideally, or send email to forilysse@icloud.com.